BKM-32X & BKM-35X Installation Guide
With orders due to be shipped out this week, thought it would be a good time for at least a written guide. I might do a video guide later on.
The installation is pretty easy overall and is more or less the same as the original kits with some minor changes.
If you have any questions or need any help after you receive your kits, you can reach out to me on my What's App or shoot me a DM on social media. Some of the text here is shamelessly copied from the original installation manual :P
Overview
The BKM-32X & BKM35X are custom made remote control mount kits based on the original BKM-32H & 35H kits. The purpose of the kits is to mount your BKM-10R or BKM-15R control units underneath your 20 inch Sony BVM monitors.
Components
The kits consists of the following components. Make sure you have all the components before beginning assembly. You are only required to have a Philips screw driver from your end.
- Left & Right Side Panel Covers
- Bottom Base Frames X 2
- Rear Bracket X 1
- Rear Joint Covers X 2
- Inner Plates X 2
- Rubber Legs X 6
- A - 2 X M4X10mm Pan Head (For attaching Bottom Base to Rear Stay / Bracket)
- B - 2 X M4X12mm CSK Head (For attaching front top of side panel covers to monitor)
- C - 2 X M4X20mm CSK Head (For attaching front bottom of side panel covers to monitor)
- D - 6 X M4X16mm Pan Head (For rubber legs)
- E - 2 X M4X25mm CSK Head (For attaching rear of the side panel covers to the monitor)
- F - 4 X M4X10MM Black Screws and 4 X black shims (For attaching the rear joint covers)
Also included 8 X M4 nuts, 1 X 7mm wrench, and 2 X screw guides (top left in the picture, will be used along with screw E during installation).
Assembly
1. If present, remove any existing side covers from your monitor. These no longer serve a purpose after you install your kit.
2. Attach all 6 rubber legs to the bottom of the two base frames and your remote.
Requirements: 2 X M4 nuts, 6 X Screw D, 6 X Rubber Legs
After install:
Should you have trouble with getting the nut to tighten, use the provided wrench to hold it still while you screw it in. This can be done in all other areas where a nut is required.
3. Attach the rear bracket to the back of your remote
After Install:
Loosen the two bottom screws on each side to attach the bracket to the remote.
4. Attach the two bottom base frames to the rear bracket.
Requirements: 2 X M4 Nuts, 2 X Screw A
Before attaching the left side, make sure to connect your remote cable.
Insert the base frames into the rear bracket as shown. Do one side at a time.
Use screw A and a nut to attach.
To make this part easier, slide the nut on the inside walls and line it up with the screw hole then insert the screw.
If needed, use the wrench to help tighten the nut. This area in particular would be best to have really tight.
When you're finished it should look like this:
(Do not forget to attach your cable or you will regret, like I did, in the later steps)
Important note on this part: I've noticed some people having fitment issues with the side panel covers later on in the installation because the bottom bases here were not tightened enough. Make sure the nut is tight here on both sides, and that the bottom base pieces are sitting flush against the bracket from both ends. This way once you install the gray side panel covers later on they will fit nice and flush from the sides without sticking out.
Note to A20 owners, the left bottom base should be the one with the wire loops. You should also attach your wires right now before the next step.
5- Place the monitor on top of the remote and base frames. Use the 2 holes on top of the remote as a guide as shown below:
Probably best to have someone help you here so you don't break your back.
This is my monitor flipped for demonstration purposes.
When placed on top, will look like this.
6- Attach the side plate covers
Requirements: 2 X Screw B, 2 X Screw C, 2 X Screw E, 2 X M4 Nuts, 2 X Screw Guides, 2 X Front Extenders
Picture below shows what is needed for each side:
Note: Some customers have complained the screw hole in the 3d printed inner plates here is a little off center. This is due most likely to inaccuracy in 3d printing which we don't have complete control over. If the hole is way off center, you might need to enlarge it slightly before screwing it in. Otherwise, I found that inserting the screw slightly diagonally and with a little force, I was able to screw it in on my monitor easily. Most people did not complain, this is just a heads up incase you have this problem.
Attach the inner plates as shown below to the side panel covers:
Insert Screw E in the rear hole of the side panel cover and insert it into the plastic screw guide as shown below:
Screw in the side panel from the front but do not tighten the screws all the way.
Use screw B for the top hole and Screw C for the bottom one.
With the front loose, you should be able to guide the rear screw into the parallel hole on the bottom base as shown below:
Use an M4 nut to tighten the screw. Again, it is much easier to line up the nut to the hole on the inside first before inserting the screw. When done here don't forget to screw the other two on the front. Do the same to the other side panel.
7. Attach the rear joint covers
Requirements: 4 X Black Screws, 4 X Black Shims, 2 X M4 nuts
This step is pretty straightforward. Use the black screws with the shims. The bottom screw needs the nut only. The shims were a last minute solution as I couldn't find black screws with bigger heads, and we had to opt for 6MM holes here for fitment.
Line up the nut on the inside first, then insert screw and tighten. It's a little tricky here to insert the wrench, you can use your fingers to hold the nut while screwing and it should be tight enough.
Do the other sides and that's it!
Note: The fitment for the side panel covers is not 100% accurate as the original. For a better look from the front, its best to not screw it in too tight. For best results it should look like the picture below:
Pro tip: If your cable is too long like mine, you can easily tuck it inside the bottom base frame.
Pro tip for A20 owners: If you don't have that annoying 5v cable, you can use a normal AC cable since your 15R remote has an AC plug. Unlike the original kit, in this case you can route the AC wire through the base frame and out of the back.
Also, if you want to go wild and go for a really neat look and avoid the wire loops on the side, you can easily drill a hole on the side of the base frame to route the LAN and 5V DC cable through the bottom base. It might however need a pretty big hole.
If you need any help, make sure to reach out to me. I hope this guide is clear and understandable. If you have any suggestions for changes please let me know.